The end of an arm of the railway for six months

He refused any triumphalism, but under the moderate tone through a deep satisfaction. Xavier de Volontat, President of the European Confederation of independent winegrowers, comes to learn that the Brussels Commission waives to allow the blending of white wine with red wine to make the rosé. The end of an arm of the railway for six months. "This device, it was the way open for the manufacture of wine at the expense of its development, the essence of our business," he said, relieved. "Our arguments concerning the quality of the product, the economic weight of the producing regions, sustainable development and respect for the consumer focused", welcomes this cut pink hard opponent. And yet... "The case seemed very poorly engaged", recognizes Xavier de Volontat. Part of professional thought the battle lost, ready to fight for a specific labelling. Because, initially, professionals trading who were themselves favourable to it had led a devilishly effective lobbying.

United Front

But, at the initiative of the appellations of Provence, a virulent mobilization organized against the proposal of Brussels and has quickly spread to the Italy, the Spain, the Greece and the Germany... A United front, which could open a small gap in the determination of the Commission. The result of the European elections has probably made the rest and swept past Brussels hesitation. Unless the decline is explained by political considerations: in full campaign for the renewal of its mandate, the President of the Commission, José Manuel Barroso would very likely to alienate some of its supporters, from the Sunday poll, to bring on this dossier.

The case of "cut pink" dates back to the last winter. At the time, it must be said, it had little mobilized in France, whether professionals of the vine or the authorities themselves. January 27, Mariann Fischer Boel, Commissioner for Agriculture and rural development (second important in this case liability), proposed, in the development of regulations on oenological practices, a small sentence which prohibited since 1999 to produce rosé wine by blending red wine with white. The French delegation vote the regulation in question. The paragraph concerning the rosé is drowned in a set of other provisions approved by the French camp, and the defence of Provence or Tavel rosé passes to SA.

Setup low white of range

It is that behind the scenes the "wine industry lobby", as they are called in the vineyards, proved to be particularly convincing. Including the Agriculture Minister, Michel Barnier, who insurgera against "this heresy" that early spring! Eager to surf on the carrier wave of pink, single wine have seen consumption grow its last years, the trading professionals advanced an argument of weight for permission to perform the cutting: outside the Union, other countries manufacture "Rosé" according to this method. That said, European traders feel disadvantaged in international markets, from fellow Australian, Argentine or South Africans are without concern sell this type of product.

The idea of this colourful wine was all the more attractive in the eyes of some, that it was not, of course, to put on the market of the great white wines rosis with great red wines. The new regulation provided, inter alia, to prohibit any practice of cutting the AOC. The idea was therefore rather for white wines down range, at prices defying all competition. "It is neither more nor less of the deception and forgery", rebelled François Millo, Director of the interprofessional Council of the wines of Provence (CIVP), which brings together 600 producers and 72 dealers, either a total output of 170 million bottles. "How do you want the consumer to find." It is not the time to read the details of the label. It will rely on the colour, the price and to leave taken in by a marketing package.

A form of opportunism violently denounced by the Provençal winemakers, Inheritors of an ancestral tradition. The production of several crus classified as Château Roubine, Château Sainte-Roseline or Château Saint-Martin dates back to the 19th century. Professionals argue that rosé champagne is made for ages by the process of cutting, nothing. "Our wines are unlikely to be directly competed by blending wine, but this is the image of pink that was at stake in this case," stresses Valérie Riboud-Rousselle, owner of château Roubine, Lorgues (Var), both proud and shy of demonstrating in the streets for the first time in his life.

"Ability to listen."

"For a long time, we was accused of making piquette was wrong in the head, and this was not entirely false", admits Jean-Jacques Brabant, the President of the CIVP. "It's nearly twenty years that it has all relied on quality to offer the consumer a light wine, fresh, fruity in the colours of our Provence," argues, willing to defend its sector which employs 20,000 people and realize a turnover of the order of EUR 1 billion. It is still all returned by the idea that "both investment, starting with our rosé wine research centre, could be swept away by a Brussels arbitrariness from people who do not have the culture of wine". And welcomed that "the Commission knew of the professionals and consumers, listening to" returning to its decision A reference to the polls under opposition State 87 of consumers interviewed in the placing on the market of cut wine.

"The pressure has paid off and wisdom has prevailed." "Brussels, who is alleged to enact rules without taking account of the interests of citizens, perhaps wanted to demonstrate its ability to listen", said Richard Maby, President of the Union of producers of Tavel, a historical product Vaucluse rosé to 40,000 hectolitres per year. "We have many years in some markets as the Scandinavian countries and the provision risked everything to question", confirms Vincent of Bez, owner of the Castle Aqueria, Tavel, is pleased to note that the Norwegians and Swedes start to focus on the rosé. He remembers the distant past where the Pays de la Loire had exported cutting rosé wines to the Netherlands. "They did a season, but not two, and it took two decades before the Dutch interested again in the pink", tells the winegrower. "The time where we was taken for chemists is gone," still argues Richard Maby, which does cache not surprise that at the time where it legislates in turn arm on eating Brussels could leave the provision of his hat...